Estonia, Russia, Finland, Sweden

The unifying theme of the ship is "Palazzo," or the magnificent splendor of Italian culture spawned by proximity to the great sea bisecting the terra firma of the eastern hemisphere.

In fact, Costa Mediterranea stands apart as the most Italian of the "cruising Italian-style cruise line". The decor is replete with homage to 16th and 17th century Italian baroque and rococo detail, enough to keep the eyes dancing with discovery through the entire cruise.

As Costa's second ship designed by the famous, Joe Farcus, for whom there is no such thing as "too much luxury", this ship is homage to Italian artisans, including plenty of Venetian glass and reproductions of Italian classic painters. There are plenty of sweeping staircases, Carrara marble and Renaissance-style mosaics.

The "must-see" of the ship is the Maschera d'Argento in the atrium which features suspended dancing figures performing a no-gravity dance upon the wall opposite the glass elevators.

Overlooking the 10-deck atrium, the two-deck Club Medusa, with a crowning skylight and opaque orange/yellow glass surrounding the upper level, serves as the ship's very attractive alternate restaurant and late night Cigar Bar. The atrium also serves as a public room, and the bar on the lower level is the ship's social hub.

The Maschera d'Argento is the centerpiece of the atrium. It stretches generously from side to side with plenty of stools for people watching or just admiring the ten-deck expanse soaring above you filled with figurines apparently dancing on the walls over your head. The three-tier Osiris Theater has a mystical Egyptian motif, but even with three decks the sight lines could be better, especially on the flat floor.

You can stroll through the ship in a sort of zigzag pattern that takes you through most of the publics one after another in a "Mr. Toads Wild Ride" fashion, on transitioning into the next with you always guessing what is around the next corner. The Piazza Casanova, with a huge dance floor, is themed upon a Venetian palace ballroom with figures of cupid figurines adorning the walls. The Asian-accented Roero Bar and Oriental Lounge are strangely incongruous with Asian colors and decor, including the uniforms of the wait staff. A small, combination library/Internet cafe next to the Oriental Lounge has nine computer stations.

The Grand Canal Casino has all the usual table games and slots, while the gift shops and duty-free shops feature everything from logowear to fine jewelry. You find plenty of Italian keepsakes such as miniature Leaning Towers of Pisa.

The two-deck Restaurant degli Argentieri, aft, offers fantastic views of the ship's wake, and lots of larger tables and some banquettes around the perimeter. Done in varying shades of gold with painted ceilings, look for the tiny silver statues hidden in nooks throughout the room.

In Club Medusa, the waiters and maitre d' will act as if serving you is the highlight of their lives, and there's a proper sommelier to keep your wine glass full. The menu is the work of Michelin chef Gualtiero Marchesi.

$8.50 per day is charged to everybody's shipboard account, (including children, for dining room and stateroom personnel. Passengers can have the amount adjusted by visiting the Guest Relations Desk.

A 15 percent gratuity is automatically added to all bar tabs. Spa staff and room service staff may be tipped as service is received.

There is a wide variety of evening activities in at least four different venues. One lounge offers ballroom dancing for an hour a night. The huge, three-story Osiris Theatre showroom features a different show or production every night, with everything from magic to flamenco dancers. Salone Orientale is filled each night for bingo, and the pool deck is used for themed deck parties. There is live music most nights in the Club Medusa. The large, two-deck disco Selva is packed until late every night, probably in substantial part because it is fantastically atmospheric; descending the spiral staircase really does feel like entering The Inferno.

Dancers will be delighted to know at least one sea-going tradition is still alive and well; every lounge aboard has both a stage and a large dance floor; even the main entry lobby has a wood-inlaid one at its center!

The cabins' caramel-color wood tones and warm autumn-hued fabrics are easy on the eye, and 70 percent have balconies. With the standard inside and outside cabins, you pay for location.

Special suite amenities include whirlpool tubs, terry cloth robes and slippers, additional toiletries, sparkling wine and cold canapes on embarkation day, daily fruit baskets, an additional Captain's cocktail party, complimentary dinner at ClubAtlantica, and personalized butler service.

There are no self-service launderettes or ironing rooms.

The very large fitness center and Ischia spa run by Steiner's of London are on multi-level upper-forward decks, giving exercisers wonderful views. A wide selection of weights, treadmills, bikes, rowing machines and other sophisticated training equipment is available, as well as a popular large indoor Jacuzzi situated underneath a skylight. All the machines are by Technogym Italy, and are part of a self-guided circuit training system, kind of a personal cyber-trainer.

A small jogging track on top of the fitness decks circles the mast. The Promenade deck on Deck 3 does not go all the way around, however, creating a large U shaped path that tends to be virtually empty during many hours of the day. There are three pools on deck with whirlpools, none heated. The large water slide, beloved of kids, is open only one hour a day.

"Cruising Italian Style" carries over to the Costa Kids Club, which offers extensive programs for youngsters -- and guarantees relaxation for their harried parents. The large children's "animation staff," comprising from four to seven kids' cruise directors is wonderful.

On the two 'gala' nights, a casual jacket and tie are standard, while many men wear an actual suit. In the European style, ties are optional, especially on younger men. In the Caribbean, there is also a theme night on which many passengers wrap themselves in sheets and call them togas. Europeans tend to dress fancier for daytime activities than Americans, so don't expect not to feel underdressed in cutoffs and a T-shirt on European sailings.


Denmark 's capital is sophisticated, saucy and friendly. Stroll the fairytale world of Tivoli Gardens to take in bright lights, castles that out-Disney Disney. See the city's 200- year-old Royal Palace, the lively Old Harbor—Hans Christian Andersen lived here. Salute the Little Mermaid, symbol of this light-hearted city.

Medieval walls and towers still stand tall in Tallinn's Old Town. Stroll and shop along cobblestone streets, walk up to the Baroque palace in the Upper Town, look out over the red roofs to the Baltic below, drop in at Alexander Nevsky Cathedral to find inspiration in the gleaming mosaics and icons. Crisp, gorgeous linen is a local specialty—find yours at a small store near the town hall square.

Bald eagles perch in the spruce and cedar trees of Sitka—often several to a branch. Russian Alaska is enthusiastically represented in a lively performance by the New Archangel Dancers. View holy paintings of the Czarist days, visit recuperating eagles at the rehabilitation center and hear the amazing story of the Cathedral fire and Sitka's mad flurry to save the church's icons and religious treasures.

Shaped by its bays and off-shore islands, Helsinki is one of Europe's most scenic capitals. Take an archipelago cruise, walk the esplanade shopping streets, hear a Sibelius concert, or tour across the Arctic Circle to Lapland, home of Santa Claus, reindeer and the Midnight Sun.

There's so much to see in charming Stockholm, sprawled on 18 islands, often called the " Venice of the North." Cruise the sparkling waterways and navigate narrow, medieval streets. Watch the snappy changing of the guard at the Baroque Royal Palace and sail into Viking history with a visit to the awesome Vasa Museum.


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